The Grand Narrative

Nudist Beaches for Westerners: Koreans’ stereotypes exposed?

Posted in East Asia, Interracial Relationships, Korean Advertisements, Korean Sexuality by James Turnbull on February 15, 2009
( Alone with my friends by Kr. B. )

While spending all one’s free time searching for stories and images related to Korean sexuality would probably be considered somewhat of a peccadillo for most people, one advantage(?) of having written extensively on the subject is that after a certain point it morphs into legitimate research instead, this week sending me to wait in vain at an intersection for a good shot of one of ski resort Eden Valley’s (에덴벨리) notorious advertisements on the side of a bus for instance (but not unlike this, and by coincidence they’re looking for a new model), and the next day walking along the whole length of a subway train trying to relocate this advertisement for an advertising agency seen through the windows as it passed by the platform (surely it wasn’t simply a silhouette of a breast? Was it really that inane?).  Frankly then, it was somewhat of a relief to simply stay in one place and cut out the Korea Times article on plans for a nudist beach that is the subject of this post, albeit in full view of my boss and colleagues.

With such audacity comes great responsibility however, and I was definitely remiss in ultimately rejecting that as an…er…fluff piece, not noticing the links that fellow blogger and frequent commenter Brian did between those plans and Koreans’ often flawed and exaggerated notions of Westerners’ sexuality and attitudes towards nudity too. So, I highly recommend reading his short post on the subject before continuing, and assuming that you have, here I’d like to concentrate on those points of his that I think are a little more nuanced and/or should have been put more forcefully, starting with why we both read primarily “Westerners” where the article states “foreigners.”

minimalist-womens-figure-cartoon-cut-off-and-reversed

One reason is that while Brian suggests that there may be “pockets of interest among visitors from neighboring countries,” I doubt that personally, or at least that they would ever be sufficient to significantly influence visitor numbers, as Jeju Island where the nudist beach is to be established can’t really compete with other Pacific destinations in terms of a consistently pleasant and sunny climate nor a liberal social atmosphere conducive to public acceptance of nudist beaches. (source right)

This is despite Jeju island being well-known for both in Korea itself, but I think that the latter is actually quite exaggerated, partially because of older Koreans growing up to images of scantily-clad female divers, and partially because mainland Korea has moved on a great deal (although by no means fully) since the days of, variously: arranged marriages; relative lack of premarital sex (at least amongst those classes concerned about status and appearances); and finally Jeju being the only place affordable for newly middle-class couples to have their honeymoons, all of which would have naturally combined to give it a not entirely undeserved notoriety, encapsulated now perhaps in the (oft-mentioned) presence of sex theme park  “Jeju Loveland.” But the 1970s this ain’t, and while Jeju’s society as a whole certainly does still have a uniqueness and independent streak that sets apart from the rest of Korea, you could just as easily argue that it is by this stage actually quite conservative in its sexual mores, the current soaring birthrate for boys there for instance, over a decade after the problems with that convinced mainland Koreans that their preference for sons was misplaced, pointing to a much more patriarchal and therefore less liberal place than the rest of Korea.

So I very much doubt that Northeast Asians will ever be particularly attracted to the idea of stripping-off on an island where it often rains and even snows, and in a conservative part of country already well known for its conservatism too(!). Which begs the question of where the impetus for the whole idea came from in the first place:

Jungmun Beach, a favorite summer vacation spot among Koreans, has reportedly attracted ”undressed” foreigners who apparently wish to enjoy the sun while naked.

At risk of sounding like a stuck record, the Korean English-language media is notorious for its lack of professionalism,¹ and so in the absence of any actual reports then I’m much more inclined to believe that, well, they don’t actually exist, and that Jeju government officials came up with the idea completely independently: after all, actual tourists and their needs do seem to be the last things actually considered in initiatives like these. Moreover:

During a recent meeting, most residents were reported to have shown a positive response to the [idea], based on the assumption more foreign tourists would visit the island.

However, experts remain cautious. Jon Huer, a sociology professor at UMUC-Asia, said there still seems to be a gap between the idea of a nude beach and the Korean reality.

”I am sure it will attract foreigners and congregate curiosity. But I am not sure whether Korea is ready for it. It won’t modernize Korea, nor make it an open place,” he said.

Given his overseas experience, then Jon Huer should really know those “foreigners” better (update: actually, it seems he’s notorious for his ignorance). But a group of people that likes to strip off in public, more advanced than Koreans by virtue of their not being ready for this modernization and opening? Forgive my ignorance and naivety, but as far as I know Northeast Asians aren’t exactly well-known for any of those, at least not by Koreans. Moreover, there is actually a strong culture of single-sex bathhouses here, and hence in that sense a much healthier attitude towards nudity in Korea than in many more puritanical Western countries, so I’m rather confused as to why any Koreans would think that a solitary nudist beach would attract Westerners, well, at all really. Because they lack such freer attitudes towards nudity at home? Or because that’s the sort of thing more sexually liberated/perverted foreigners do? I’m much more inclined towards the latter, as I’m rather at a loss as to what else are nudist beaches supposed to “modernize” about Korea exactly, and one can’t help but notice the irony of those so coloring Koreans’ perceptions that they think that Westerners have more of a fixation with nudity than they do themselves.

프린세스-princess-tiara-andre-kim-lingerie-bra-underwear(Source)

So, as Brian notes, nudity at beaches has indeed been “conflated with sex, implying that the point of the former is to stimulate one’s appetite for the latter,” and which stems from:

…a pretty base assessment of the tastes of foreigners and foreign tourists. My first thought was that this plays into the image of the hypersexual, promiscuous Caucasian; after all, they always use foreign lingerie models on TV, and often use bikini-clad foreigners in advertisements and in the newspaper.

But although I don’t think Brian would disagree with me here, I’d stress that the ubiquitous images of scantily-clad Caucasians in the Korean media aren’t necessarily a reflection of those stereotypes, although they certainly do feed into them. With apologies to long-time readers for briefly mentioning this subject again – although in fairness its been a long time, and without knowing myself than I have – and I imagine many others would – (slightly) misinterpret the significance of ubiquitous images of semi-nude Caucasians, those are actually just as much if not more the result of the internal politics of the modeling industry, Korean female models often disdaining bikini and/or lingerie modeling because of the large numbers of Korean porn stars that have worked in that particular niche (as discussed here, here, here and here for starters!). Hence my inclusion of the rather Caucasian-looking cartoon figure above for instance, reflecting the use of overwhelmingly Caucasian models in the marketing of a new lingerie line by Korea’s best known designer.

(Update: There’s also a discussion on the subject going on at the Marmot’s Hole here)

(¹) To be fair to the Korea Times though, despite the flaws with the specific article that I critique here, the newspaper has actually been devoting a great deal of attention to general criticisms of the Korean tourism industry recently in addition to that article mentioned in the text. See here and here for instance.

Share

Creative Korean Advertising #7: Get the Native Tongue?

Posted in Creative Korean Advertising, Korean Advertisements, Korean Education by James Turnbull on February 13, 2009
korea-university-institute-of-foreign-languages-get-the-native-tounge( Source: I Believe in Advertising )

This being a Korean idea for an advertisement, then its understandable that the following accompanying English explanation of it is rife with minor mistakes, but there’s still a certain irony in “the native tongue” being advertised by people that clearly don’t quite have it themselves yet(!). Having said that, those few people with the ability to notice would be the least likely to consider signing up for a language course there, and in itself the concept is quite creative:

In order to promote intensive foreign language courses at Korea University, we have designed a poster box with foreigners’s tongue flier attached. The tongue-like fliers contain catch phrase like “Get the native tongue” along with contact information of the institute. When pulling out the flier, students can visualize themselves speaking in fluent tongue just like the native speakers. This as can convey the message to the students and the institute will be remembered as an optimum place to improve their language skills.

While we’re on the subject of advertising for institutes, you may also be interested in this report about Korean singer Shin Hae-chul (신해철), according to the Korea Times “a K-pop singer famous for his open and sarcastic criticism of government education policies” that have lead to their proliferation, but whom is widely considered to have sold out his principles recently by appearing in an advertisement for one. Here is a tabloid news report on that and the netizen reaction for those of you who speak Korean, and below is the offending advertisement itself (source), to which I’ve included this particular netizen’s take on it, who (probably tongue-in-cheek) likens Shin’s actions to students these days wearing Che Guevara t-shirts, “a symbol of resistance and revolution”, but of whom in reality something like 33% of which are actually studying to become a decidedly un-revolutionary civil servant instead, as that’s “a safe and secure job.”

shin-hae-chul-advertisement-and-cartoon

Perhaps Korean and Western university students are more similar than they first appear? ;)

(For all posts in the “Creative Korean Advertising” series, see here)

Share

Korean Cosmetics During the Downturn: not to be taken at face-value?

Posted in Body Image, Cosmetic Surgery, Cosmetics, Korean Economy, Skin Whitening by James Turnbull on February 11, 2009

song-hye-gyos-cherry.jpgDo Korean women tend to wear more cosmetics than their Western counterparts?

Had the question ever been posed, then I’d always have replied with an emphatic yes, one of my first and most vivid memories of Jinju (진주) being the faces of its ubiquitous coffee girls, almost clown-like in their blankness and painted excess.  Naturally those memories have literally colored my perceptions of Korean women’s use of cosmetics ever since, but I’ve still yet to see any evidence to dissuade me that Korean women aren’t indeed both consummate users and abusers of them, their avoidance of the sun and use of whitening cosmetics, for instance, being so great that they have among the lowest vitamin-D levels in the world, an inconvenient truth that is surely not explained merely by them tending to have darker skins than Caucasians.

What does explain it though? Earlier, I’ve approached that question via the role of women’s bodies in Neo-Confucianism, and then how this has manifested itself in postwar Korean consumerism: not irrelevant by any means, but probably not exactly what would go through Korean women’s minds as they put on cosmetics in the morning either. Instead, much more likely is something akin to this recent Bank of England memo to its female employees, detailing how they should dress:

“Look professional, not fashionable; be careful with perfume; always wear a heel of some sort – maximum 2 inches; always wear some sort of makeup – even if it’s just lipstick.” Shoes and skirt must be the same color. No-no’s include ankle chains – “professional, but not the one you want to be associated with;” white high heels; overstuffed handbags; an overload of rings, and double-pierced ears.

Which has naturally been creating a storm in feminist blogs, although in the end the bank may well have been misinterpreted (see here and here). But by virtue of it being newsworthy, to me this is the Western exception that proves the Korean rule, for a Korean friend who’s worked in Korean banks for over ten years has mentioned that wearing cosmetics has been mandatory for women at all of them, the consequences of not doing so unspecified but still so dire as to deter any would-be rebels from ever appearing at work au naturel. True, she was more often than not a teller, to whom presentation does matter to a certain extent, but I’d be surprised if similar de facto rules didn’t also exist at readers’ workplaces in other industries? For instance, while cosmetics would be somewhat lost on the acne-faced 13-18 year olds that form my own after-school institute’s “clients,” that still doesn’t stop my female colleagues from spending a not trivial amount of time each day checking their appearances and reapplying their make-up at their desks in between classes. Moreover, while it’s true that the options for the single ones are limited when they spend 12 hours a day and 6 days a week at their workplace, Korean men that work at institutes are still very low on the totem pole of desirable mates.

lee-hyori-vidal-sassoon-advertisement

I bring this subject up to provide some context to the original inspiration for this post, which was my noticing the lavish praise the Korean English-language media has dishing on the Korean cosmetics industry in recent months, the Korea Times for instance: quoting industry analysts back in December who predicted robust growth despite the economic downturn; giving a great deal of space to an interview of CEO Seong Ki-ryeong of new Korean brand The Face Shop in January, who is confident about his company’s overseas expansion plans; and finally mentioning the increasing status and sophistication of domestic brands earlier this month, the leading one of which – Amore Pacific – recently usurped Chanel as prestigious Lotte Department Store’s biggest seller, to all of which can be added the Chosun Ilbo’s report on Monday that sales of male grooming products are increasing despite the recession too. How skeptical should we be of reports such as these in light of that information that my friend passed on to me?

Actually, it makes me more inclined to believe them. While it’s true that that Korean English-language media is notorious for advertorials for instance, and that those with a vested interest in the expansion of any industry are hardly the most reliable sources on the current prospects for it, from what I’ve seen of media coverage of the effects of the recession on cosmetic and fashion industries in the international media so far, then – as you might have guessed – I can say without a doubt that both flaws are hardly confined to Korea. In fact, it’s a relief to not read about the so-called “The Lipstick Index” in the latter, the originator of which makes the claim that lipstick sales are inversely-related to (or at worst immune to) economic conditions. In reality though, as the following Economist article makes clear, this is merely fodder for curious slice-of-life articles to distract readers from the recession. Some excerpts:

Believers in the lipstick theory trace the phenomenon back to the Depression, when cosmetic sales increased by 25%, despite the convulsing economy. Some, like Dhaval Joshi of RAB Capital, an investment-management firm, point out that employment in the cosmetics industry has been known to rise as overall employment falls, suggesting that demand for cosmetics increases when consumer confidence is low….

lipstick-sales-gdp-united-states

Not everyone is convinced. Reliable historical figures on lipstick sales are hard to find, and most lipstick believers can only point to isolated, anecdotal examples as evidence of the larger phenomenon. Data collected by Kline & Company, a market-research group, show that lipstick sales sometimes increase during times of economic distress, but have also been known to grow during periods of prosperity (see chart). In other words, there is no clear correlation.

Lipstick sales are merely the latest example of a single measure that has been seized upon because it supposedly reflects economic confidence, or lack of it. Hemlines, alcohol consumption, laxative sales and even who wins the Super Bowl have all been proposed as ways to chart recessions, with varying degrees of success. So is the lipstick index dead?

Karen Grant of the NPD Group, a market-research firm, suggests that it might make more sense to look at a wider “beauty index”, rather than lipstick alone, because she thinks it is beauty as a category that holds up well in recessions, whereas sub-categories (such as lipstick) tend to go in and out of style….

Let’s consider that wider “beauty index” then, or at least what form it may take in Korea. Presumably, given those unofficial rules for women’s cosmetics as mentioned earlier, then sales of those may well remain steady here, that first Korea Times article I linked to for instance, mentioning that:

During the onset of the financial crisis in 1998, the nation’s economy contracted 6.9 percent with private spending down 13.4 percent but the cosmetics industry escaped virtually unscathed with a 0.2 percent contraction.

Also, while premium brands have been hardest hit worldwide, it is also true that those consumers already inclined to spend a little extra on perceived better-than average brands and/or natural and organic cosmetics are hardly likely to stop doing so now, and so in this sense rapidly improving, now middle of the range Korean brands like The Face Shop are probably best placed to weather the storm. Moreover, a useful, albeit perhaps obvious lesson for all industries that I’ve gained from reading all of those articles, is that the temptation to lower prices for the sake of sales must be tempered by the knowledge that the brand might find it difficult to shake off a “cheap” image once the recession is over.

But actually I’m not interested in the industry and league table of brands and sales per se, more in the (possible) effects of the recession on the grooming habits and ultimately body images of both sexes. And while the most obvious may be that a renewed premium is placed on personal attractiveness as a minor but not insignificant means of getting and/or retaining a job, I’d argue that given all the above then for Korean women at least there appears to be limited possibilities beyond what they’re actually already doing. One exception though, may be the increased wearing of deodorant, although in fact men represent much more of a untapped market in that regard. So too, do they of cosmetics in general, my realizing in hindsight as I type this that in most of my posts on recent commercials and advertisements for products aimed at men (see here, here, and here for example) I pointed out that they were actually the first of their kind.

Ultimately then, this recession may in fact entail greater changes for Korean men’s body images than women’s, arguably deepening and solidifying those already induced by the newly competitive job market and especially women’s changed preferences for men that came about as a result of the IMF Crisis of 1997-98 (the subject of my coming thesis for those of you that don’t know). In hindsight though, I may have previously exaggerated the extent of changes resulting from that, as although it undoubtedly gave a powerful boost to the notion that there were alternatives to the previous ideal of a male as a domineering but able bread-winner, you don’t need to spend much time here to note that the age-groups of men most directly affected by events then are still not exactly at the vanguard of Korean Metrosexuality now.

Instead, it’s those men in their twenties that are: of course, partially because they – and only they – have the time and inclination, but surely also because they’re the first generation of Korean men to grow up primarily with, say, fresh-faced, fashion-conscious boy-bands as their role models, one manifestation of Korean women’s new ideals for men? Recall that Korea only began to qualitatively democratize just a few years earlier upon the election of its first civilian president in 1993, and I dare say that there was little scope for any singers with appearances like current flavor of the month Ajoo (노아주) under the previous military dictatorships:

ajoo-노아주-the-korean-gay-porn-star

Sorely tempting as it is for me personally to revisit my thesis topic though, for the sake of my long term-readers already familiar with it then it’s probably best if I finish that discussion sooner rather than later.  On that note then, there are my own predictions on the effects on the recession on the Korean cosmetics industry and on the ways in which it may change the ways in which Korean women and especially men think about their appearances, but I still gladly open the floor to any others, for I confess that unfortunately my heterosexuality somewhat gets in the way of the focus of my studies sometimes!

( Image sources: 1) aRyaNa, 2) PopSeoul!, 3) DramaBeans, 4) AllKpop )

Share